Travelling around Greece for The House in the Olive Grove

It was love at first sight! The moment I stepped onto the mainland of Greece, I knew my life would change, but had no idea just how that would manifest. Years ago we were invited by our dearest friends to join their annual Greek holiday. I can’t put my finger on why I adore the place so much. I immediately felt a heightened sense of connection to the country, the landscape, food and culture. Whether it was my childhood obsession with the myths and legends of Ancient Greece, there was something almost tangible in the air that resonated with me…an echo from a life lived before, perhaps. I felt like I was meant to be there at that precise moment in time, like it was destiny.

Many people immediately think of the islands when it comes to Greece, but the mainland is just as rich in spectacular scenery. Stunning Instagram worthy sandy beaches, simple shoreline tavernas and cooler mountain micro-climates mean you don’t have to board a ferry or hop to an outcrop to soak up authentic Greek life.

In 2013, the summer after my mother died, I found an incredible peace and healing, a spiritual alignment by being there, finding the space to process what life looked like without her. Greece gave me what I needed when I needed it, even before I knew what I was looking for. When I came to write my debut novel, ‘One Last Letter From Greece’, pouring my grief into a love story celebrating the mother daughter bond, I set it in the place that had captured my heart in the Southern Peloponnese: Methoni. It’s around an hour’s drive from Kalamata airport over hilltops and through olive groves, navigating sheer ravines which reveal tantalising glimpses of the sea. It’s a beautiful place, guarded by a castle built by the Venetians in 1209 which hugs the bay with its ancient arms. Due to the protection around the ruined ramparts, there isn’t much more that can be built, and it retains a charming authenticity. In my first novel, I admit I tinkered with the geography, (sorry!) but the places featured are real. The bustling harbour town of Pylos with its giant trees creating a natural leafy canopy in the square is the perfect people-watching idyll as locals go about their business. I have whiled away countless hours nursing an ice cold frappé, watching the scurrying to and from the bakeries to secure the last slice of spanakopita – a life changing spinach and cheese pie. And there are several bakeries that co-exist and I’ve sampled delights from them all, returning for more each time I visit. Pylos is also a working port where you can observe the fisherman tend and mend their nets as hopeful cats pray for a scrap to be thrown their way.

One of the most spectacular features of the Peloponnese is the varied archaeological digs. The Palace of Nestor- around 11 miles from Pilos- was a key site in Mycenaean times and is one of the best preserved palaces in Greece. It is mentioned in Homer’s Odyssey, no less! The last time I visited, archaeologists were busy excavating, and it was fascinating to watch their pain-staking efforts armed only with a toothbrush and scalpel. Over several decades, expert teams have uncovered artifacts dating back to 1200BC and early examples of drainage and sewerage systems have been revealed along with an extensive clay jar system for storing and preserving olive oil - the prized nectar of the gods!

But the ultimate place to walk in the footsteps of the past is Ancient Messene or Messinae. It is an almost complete city with a full sized stadium, gymnasium, agora and temples. But the jewel in the crown is the breath-taking amphitheatre. Concealed initially behind the brow of a hill, you cannot quite believe it is real as each step forward reveals its beauty. The magical part of this site is you can touch the cool stone columns, sit on a marble throne in the theatre and trace the mosaics with your fingers. It was founded in approximately 370BC and is the most precious gift to immerse yourself in history. It’s approximately half an hour from Kalamata airport and is always uncrowded, with the of majority tourists heading for the famed Olympia or other places of note. It is an undiscovered gem in the Peloponnese and even if a coach load of people arrived, it is so vast, you won’t see another soul. My tip is to go early in the morning with a good litre bottle of water with you. There’s a fountain to re-fill but if it’s hot and you’re determined to cover the several miles to see all the wonders, you’ll need to replenish your fluids to brace for the walk back up the hill.

The House in the Olive Grove is set in Petalidi which is another village come town- around twenty minutes from Kalamata airport. It tends to be a thoroughfare for tourists heading to Koroni along the coast, but it’s definitely worth a visit, if only for lunch. There are fabulous tavernas around the sleepy main square where the church stands sentinel. But along the promenade, you will find a couple of fantastic fish tavernas. A chance stop and discovery of one of those eateries became my inspiration and ultimately the setting for Maria’s Kitchen. I was in Kardamyli on the Mani peninsula (another beautiful part of the mainland) and met a wonderful Polish lady called Monica who had two chihuahuas who were available for constant cuddles! She told me about Petalidi and recommended where to stay. I spent a couple of days there and it certainly made an impact. The stony beaches and the buoyant salty water yielded yet another version of Greece to inspire me.

           I couldn’t imagine writing about somewhere without being immersed in the scents and smells of a place. Greece, for me, is the ultimate sensual experience. Earthy oregano floats on the wind, ensuring food is never far from your mind. I feel incredibly lucky to have been able to write in Greece. When I’m there, I feel a deeper connection to the scenery in front of me, re-creating a moment experienced or overheard on the page. It feels as if the country becomes another character in my novels. Sense of place is what I often connect to in the books I read, so, I’ve tried to write a love letter to a country which has given me so much and has truly changed my life in countless ways.

And then there’s the food… a theme for sure in this book and my first- it’s impossible to avoid in Greece! Being able to re-live my own personal discovery of the delicious Greek cuisine through my characters has been a way to pay homage to the scores of talented home-cooks I’ve met over the years- the fiercest experts in their own kitchens. If you want to create authentic Greek cooking at home, I heartily recommend the Greek chef Akis Petretzikis, or try a Cypriot twist with the lovely Theo Michaels, or my wonderful friend from Crete, Irini Tzortzoglou. If you’ve read my first book, you’ll know that I’m in a full-time relationship with the Greek orange cake, Portokalopita. I’ve tried so many versions but in Irini’s book, Under the Olive Tree, she does a killer citrus version and it’s heaven! Her recipe for the Greek Easter cookies mentioned in this novel is fabulous too. I will also be sharing some of my recipes on my website or on social media, so keep your eyes peeled and your tastebuds poised for slice of Greek deliciousness!

A sneak preview for you….despite having waxed lyrical about the mainland of Greece which I will continue to visit and adore, for my third novel, I am off to a very special island. I hope you can join me for my next Grecian adventure.